EGG FOO YONG

SERVES 2 Egg Foo Yong has a deliciously confused identity. It’s not quite an omelet, almost a pancake, and somewhere beyond a fritter. It has become a 100% American dish, although its culinary roots reach back to Shanghai, and its name—with at least six accepted spellings—is Cantonese. Egg foo yong appeared in the first Chinese cookbook for American cooks in 1912 but reached the pinnacle of its popularity after World War II. The country was wild for Tiki culture and egg foo yong became ubiquitous in “Polynesian” and Chinese restaurants across the U.S. I was introduced to egg foo yong on a date with a very cute boy in high school; I was smitten with both. INGREDIENTS EGG FOO YONG: • 4 large eggs • 4 ounces grilled chicken thighs (p. 29), diced • 2 cups (480 ml) steam-sautéed cabbage (p. 33), minced • 4 scallions, green and white parts, thinly sliced • 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of coconut aminos • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) Chinese five-spice powder • 1/4 teaspoon (20 ml) cayenne pepper • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) sesame oil • 2 teaspoons (10 ml) coconut oil • additional scallion tops, for garnish SPICY SECRET SAUCE: • 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Olive Oil Mayo (p. 43) • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) coconut aminos • 1/2 teaspoon (10 ml) sesame oil • 1/4 teaspoon (20 ml) rice vinegar • 1/2 clove garlic, minced (about 1/2 teaspoon (10 ml)) • 1/4 teaspoon (20 ml) crushed red pepper flakes; pinch cayenne pepper If you’d visited the restaurant New Joy Young in Knoxville, Tennessee, in the 1950s, you could have enjoyed a $3.20 feast of wonton soup, egg foo yong, chow mein, and egg rolls. DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 300 F (150°C). Cover a large baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. 2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk or fork, then add the diced chicken, cabbage, scallions, coconut aminos, five-spice powder, cayenne, and sesame oil. Blend well. 3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes. Add coconut oil and allow it to melt. Place pancake rings in the skillet, and pour 1/4 cup (960 ml) batter into each ring. Cook for 5 minutes, remove the rings, and flip the patties to brown the other side. Cook for about 5 minutes, then remove them to the baking sheet and place them in the oven to keep them hot while you make the rest of the patties. 4. To make the spicy secret sauce, place all the ingredients in a small bowl and use a fork to mix until blended. 5. To serve egg foo yong, stack the patties on a plate, top with a dollop of spicy secret sauce, and sprinkle with sliced scallion tops.

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Egg foo yong is the Chinese-American classic with a deliciously confused identity — not quite an omelet, almost a pancake, somewhere beyond a fritter. Diced grilled chicken and minced cabbage fold into egg patties seasoned with five-spice and coconut aminos, then stack under a spicy secret sauce. It is takeout nostalgia rebuilt with zero mystery ingredients.

Pro Tips

• Use pancake rings in the skillet to form neat, even patties. Free-poured egg foo yong spreads thin and loses the fritter-like thickness the dish is known for.
• Preheat the oven to 300F and hold the finished patties there while you cook the rest. Cold egg foo yong loses all its appeal.
• The steam-sautéed cabbage should be minced fine and drained. Watery cabbage makes the patties soggy instead of golden.
• The spicy secret sauce — olive oil mayo, aminos, sesame oil, vinegar, and garlic — is what completes the dish. Do not skip it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is egg foo yong?

A Cantonese-American egg dish somewhere between an omelet and a fritter, popularized in US Chinese restaurants after World War II.

Can I make it vegetarian?

Yes — leave out the chicken and increase the cabbage and scallions. The five-spice and secret sauce carry plenty of flavor.

How many servings does this recipe make?

Two servings of stacked egg patties — double the batch for a bigger table.

What should I serve alongside egg foo yong?

Cauliflower rice or a simple vegetable side keeps the meal light and lets the patties and sauce stay the star.

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