CZECH MEATBALLS

SERVES 6 to 8 My maternal grandmother, Veronica Caroline Rovnak, came to the United States in 1902 from what was then called Czechoslovakia. Her village, not much more than a single street dominated by a white clapboard church, sat deep in a leafy green valley. At 17, she married my Italian grandfather in Pennsylvania, and they passed their fiery emotions to my mom and to me. I never learned much of Granny’s personal history, but I liked to make up stories about gypsies and the evil eye. As a teenager, I gave myself chills by thinking of spies behind the Iron Curtain of Eastern Europe. When I finally visited Prague in 2010, it exceeded my romantic imagination. Everywhere I looked, there was a story: in the cobblestone streets; in the statues atop the buildings; in the stained glass windows; and in the pubs where Czechs drink beer, eat hearty food, and swap tall tales about their everyday lives. INGREDIENTS • 1 clove garlic, minced (about 1 teaspoon) • 1/2 tablespoon (30 ml) salt • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) caraway seeds • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) ground paprika • 1 tablespoon ground black pepper • 1 cup (240 ml) fresh parsley leaves, minced (about 1/4 cup (960 ml)) • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) grainy mustard • 1 large egg • 2 pounds (907 g) ground pork DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 400 F (200°C). Cover a large baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. 2. In a large bowl, mix the garlic, salt, caraway seeds, paprika, pepper, parsley, mustard, and egg with a fork until combined. With your hands, crumble the pork into the bowl and knead until all of the ingredients are incorporated. 3. Moisten your hands with water and shake to remove excess. Measure a level tablespoon of pork and roll it into a ball between your palms. Line up the meatballs like little soldiers on the prepared baking sheet, about 1/2 inch apart. 4. Slide the meatballs into the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes, until golden brown and cooked through. You know how you could do that? Make ‘em tiny and serve on toothpicks as appetizers; reduce baking time to 10-15 minutes.

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Czech meatballs are a taste of Central Europe: ground pork kneaded with caraway seeds, paprika, grainy mustard, and fresh parsley, then baked until golden. The caraway is the signature flavor that makes them unmistakably Czech. Twenty-five minutes in the oven and you have the hearty, simple food of a Prague pub.

Pro Tips

• Do not skip the caraway seeds. They are the defining flavor of Czech meatballs — without them, they are just good pork meatballs.
• Knead the seasonings and egg into the pork thoroughly with your hands. Even spice distribution is what makes every meatball taste the same.
• Moisten your hands before rolling — the pork mixture sticks badly, and damp palms give you smooth rounds in seconds.
• Bake the meatballs 1/2 inch apart so they brown on all sides rather than steaming into each other.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many meatballs does this recipe make?

Six to eight servings of table-sized meatballs. Roll them smaller for appetizers and reduce the bake to 10-15 minutes.

Can I use ground beef instead of pork?

Pork is traditional and gives the juiciest result, but a pork-beef blend works well with the caraway and mustard.

How long do Czech meatballs keep?

Up to 4 days in the fridge and they freeze beautifully. Reheat gently in the oven to keep the crust.

What should I serve with them?

Classic Czech sides — sauerkraut, mashed cauliflower, or roasted root vegetables — all love the caraway and mustard flavors.

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