As I mentioned in the beginning of this book, I was fortunate enough while living in Los Angeles to befriend some chefs who are way more talented/knowledgeable than me. Chef Jet Tila is one such person. Jet is the executive chef at the Wynn Encore’s Wazuzu restaurant, has been featured on the Food Network’s “Best Thing I Ever Ate” and “Iron Chef America.” He is of Thai/Chinese descent, and his family owns and runs the first Thai market ever opened in Los Angeles. He knows his stuff and is just an awesome dude. I had a blast getting to cater events with him and explore the hole-in-the-wall Thai joints around LA under his supervision. I am fairly certain that the knowledge he imparted to me regarding making really good curry scored me a husband.
Jet taught me what I know about Thai cooking and ingredients, and this is one recipe that reflects such. Much of Thai food is about balance, and getting the correct balance of spice, coconut (sweet), and “umami” (mostly from the fish sauce) is quite a feat. While you could theoretically make this soup without the fish sauce, you’ll be missing that subtle umami flavoring.
I could go on and on about Jet and his food, what he taught me, but I will spare you that and suggest that you check out Jet’s website (www.chefjet.com) and where he might be appearing next!
3 cups (250 mL) chicken stock
3 Kaffir lime leaves, torn
3 2-inch (5 cm) pieces of lemongrass, bruised to help release the flavor
2–3 1-inch (2 cm) pieces of fresh ginger, peeled
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fish sauce
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh squeezed lime juice
1–2 Thai chili peppers, thinly chopped (optional)
1 cup (75 g) sliced mushrooms
2 cans coconut milk
2 pounds (1 kg) chicken breasts, thinly sliced
2–3 tablespoons (45 ml) cilantro, chopped (optional)
- Bring all the ingredients up to and including the chili peppers (if using) to a boil.
- Reduce to a simmer and let it cook for about an hour or so to really get those flavors melding.
- Add in the mushrooms and coconut milk. Bring to a simmer.
- Add in the chicken and simmer until the chicken is cooked through.
- Finish off with some cilantro and extra chili peppers (if you want) and enjoy!
Ingredient Notes—If you cannot find Kaffir lime leaves (Charles bought us two Kaffir lime trees for Christmas one year—yay!) you can use some lime zest and it will get close to a similar flavor—but not exactly the same. My suggestion is this: when you can find some Kaffir lime leaves in the store, buy a bunch and put them in a plastic bag, freezing them until you need them. Many Asian markets carry Kaffir lime leaves in the produce section (where you might find other fresh herbs). Galangal is more commonly used in such recipes as opposed to ginger, but is a little harder to find.
Variation—By all means use shrimp instead of the chicken and it would be mighty tasty too!
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Tom kha gai builds Thai balance the honest way - lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and ginger simmered in chicken stock before coconut milk rounds it all out. Fish sauce brings the umami you cannot fake, and lime juice keeps the bowl bright. Thinly sliced chicken cooks in minutes at the end.
Pro Tips
- Bruise the lemongrass stalks and tear the lime leaves before they go in - intact aromatics give up almost nothing in an hour of simmering.
- Let the broth simmer a full hour before the coconut milk goes in; that is when the aromatics actually meld.
- Add the chicken last and simmer only until cooked through - thin slices toughen fast past that point.
- No kaffir lime leaves? Lime zest gets close, per the recipe, and frozen leaves from an Asian market keep for months.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make it without fish sauce?
You can, but the recipe warns you will miss the subtle umami that defines the soup.
Can I use shrimp instead of chicken?
Yes - the variation swaps shrimp in and calls the result mighty tasty.
Is galangal better than ginger?
Galangal is more traditional in tom kha gai but harder to find; the recipe uses ginger for accessibility.
Recipe Card
Ingredients
Method
- Bring all the ingredients up to and including the chili peppers (if using) to a boil.
- Reduce to a simmer and let it cook for about an hour or so to really get those flavors melding.
- Add in the mushrooms and coconut milk.
- Bring to a simmer.
- Add in the chicken and simmer until the chicken is cooked through.
- Finish off with some cilantro and extra chili peppers (if you want) and enjoy!
